Year: 2025

Peru, Chile, and Easter Island—Part 3

Cusco—Capital of the Inca Empire

Despite the fact that Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, it can be hard to tell because of the overwhelming Spanish influence prominently on display. But, pay attention, look a little closer as you walk the streets and alleyways. You will see the older, underlying Inca and pre-Inca foundations all around.

Twelve corner Incan stone in the wall along Calle Hatunrumiyoc
On our way to Plaza de Armas
As we approached the Plaza, the sounds of a local indigenous dance festival became louder.
Catedral de Cusco on the Plaza de Armas
Iglesia de la Campania de Jesus on the Plaza de Armas
Túpac Amaru—last leader of the Inca executed by the Spanish in 1572

Walking on from the Plaza de Armas along the side of Iglesia de la Campania de Jesus, we pass by an archaeological site enclosed by walls and glass—Kusicancha, Quechua for “happy enclosure.” This is understood to be the birthplace and childhood home of Pachacuti Inca Yupanqui, the ninth Sapa Inca (emperor). He is credited with building the Chiefdom of Cusco into what is now known as the Inca Empire through conquest, cultural integration, and development.

Romeritos Alley
A glimpse of a courtyard in the Kusicancha archaeological complex through a rain-soaked glass doorway along Romeritos alley.

Courtyards like these were once surrounded by the palaces and homes of Inca nobility prior to Spanish colonization. These courtyards were built in a grid layout called “Canchas” in Quechua. The homes and courtyards of Kusicancha are now part of the “Dirección Desconcentrada de Cultura de Cusco” at 340 Maruri Street in downtown Cusco which seeks to preserve pre-colonial Inca culture and history.

Soon we arrived at Quri Kancha, or Coricancha, the “golden temple.” The main entrance is marked by the church and convent built on the original site of the Coricancha with stones and other bulding materials taken from the sacred Inca temple.

Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo de Guzmán
Entrance to the Coricancha museum
Courtyard at the center of the Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo
Some of the many intricately-shaped stones, now on display in the museum, taken from the original Coricancha to build the later Spanish church and other structures.
Within the church, now museum, still stand walls and rooms of the original Coricancha.
The stonework and precise alignment are amazing…
…down to some of the smallest details—thought not to be accidental.

Then, there are the gardens of the church and convent that came later.

The church overlooks this manicured garden in a design inspired by the figures we will see later elsewhere in southern Peru.

The drive via motorcoach from the hotel in the San Blas neighborhood to the airport on the southwest side of town through morning traffic was full of local sights and sounds punctuated by a farewell from Inca Pachacutec high on a tower platform pointing us in the right direction.

I was grateful not to be the journeyman tasked with maintaining this jumble of cables. But it does looks like good job security! Cable junctions like this one are all over the city—and throughout all the cities and towns we visited.
Monumento Inca Pachacutec

NEXT: Onto Arequipa

Post Script—Our hotel in the San Blas neighborhood of central Cusco

Hotel La Antigua Casona San Blas
(Note the jumble of cables above the balcony and the ladder—I told you they were everywhere!)
Cool, quiet inner courtyard, lounge, and bar
Partial view of our second floor room; the entry, sitting room, and bathroom were behind me.
Beautful doors on the French balcony overlooking another inner courtyard
For breakfast, egg burritos con salsa fresca…
…and café latte.
For lunch, fish tacos and a cerveza Cusqueña at the hotel restaurant.

NEXT: Onto Arequipa