Cruising French Polynesia—Back to the Society Islands

Taha’a and Bora Bora

Later that day, we were off again for a day at sea and overnight on the way back to the Society Islands. This time, as we had done returning to the Tuamotus, we headed for the western, windward end of the island chain at Taha’a and Bora Bora.

We anchored off Taha’a at Motu Mahaea. We were supposed to go ashore on Mahaea for a beach barbecue but the weather and sea state precluded it. The next morning, the weather had calmed. We took the tender craft to Taha’a to visit a Tahitian vanilla plantation.

Power catamaran to shore with musical entertainment provided by our guide and the first mate
Our guide to growing, harvesting, and the multiple ways to process and package vanilla beans.

Various flavors of vanilla extract—among the many vanilla based tproducts for sale and exported by the plantation.

Another few hours cruising took us to our westernmost port of call in the Society Islands—Bora Bora—perhaps its most widely recognized island. Its reputation turned out to be justified as the mountainous island and its surrounding lagoon are a beautiful tropical paradise full of exotic plant, marine wildlife, and a welcoming population—both native and French.

Our port of call on Bora-Bora, the town of Vaitape on the west side of the island at the base of Mount Pahia

We anchored in the perimeter lagoon near the islets of To’opua and Motu Tapu—formerly the queen’s private island—now a park and site for Polynesian barbecues and native dance performances. By the way, the Tahitian word Motu means island.

Iconic beach on Motu Tapu

Overnight, we sailed to our last port of call before our final disembarkation at Papeete, Tahiti. The next morning, we found oursleves moored in Cook Bay on the island of Moorea.

Entrance to Cook Bay on Moorea
One of several major overwater resort hotels on the island
Construction of a new overwater resort hotel on the south side of the island
Mount Tohivea—1,207 meters—the center of the island

After breakfast, we walked to the Coral Gardeners research and restoration center. The Center is part of a global network of coral restoration organzations working to save coral reefs around the world by growing coral and repopulating reefs in their local waters.

Entrance to Coral Gardeners Research Center
Introductory presentation on the mission of the center, the science and methods it employs, the coral farm itself, and results to date

We boarded a couple of power boats for the ride out to the underwater coral farm.

Coral Gardeners boat ride to the garden, Moorea (Source: https://coralgardeners.org/)

“Coral reefs are among the most biodiverse ecosystems on Earth. They shelter an incredible variety of marine life and protect millions of people along coastlines. Yet they are also among the ecosystems most affected by climate change and human activity — and a large share could disappear by 2050 if we do not act.”— Coral Gardeners Moorea—https://coralgardeners.org/

Section of coral garden at Moorea (Source: https://coralgardeners.org/)

The garden is located just offshore in a shallow cove on the northeast side of the island in the protected lagoon. The garden consists of a network of steel pipe frameworks supporting wire cables to which coral cuttings are tied. They are monitored 24 hours a day by underwater camera and an Internet connection to the Coral Gardeners research center on the island. When they reach a viable stage of growth they are harvested for transplanting in coral reefs throughout French Polynesia. The corals grown here are intended only for transplantation on reefs in the waters of French Polynesia. Water conditions must be the same as those in which they were grown or the transplanted coral will not survive.

Back to port from the coral garden

We spent the afternoon walking along Cook Bay from the port toward Paopao, the village at the head of the bay. We did a little pearl shopping and stopped for a local beer.

Inner Cook Bay, Maha’a

Our last adventure on Moorea was a boat ride around the island with a stop for drift-snorkeling in the current along a coral reef.

Entering a passage to the edge of the lagoon
Coral reef in the passage
Coral mound as seen from the boat
Out on the lagoon encircling Bora-Bora
Waves breaking outside the barrier reef surrounding Bora-Bora

Later that afternoon, we departed for our last stop and disembarkation port at Papeete, Tahiti.

Afternoon walk along Cook Bay back toward the port from the village of Paopao

NEXT: Back to Papeete, Tahiti — Ah, well, I forgot to publish this post before the final post on the last leg of the trip back to Papeete. I will see if I can remedy the situation but, for now, the postings will appear out of chronological sequence.

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Author: Carlo

Retired systems engineer and management consultant turned aspiring travel and technology writer.

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